P n J`s Adventures of Egypt

P n J`s adventures of Egypt

They really are this close to the city

No one will ever believe this, but I invented the Cairo to Cape Town idea. It was solely based on a cheap flight in; and (for its distance) a relatively cheap flight out.
Of course, in this thinking, there existed the alternative of ferrying somewhere into Morroco, but then to get to South Africa, there were too many countries, which meant too many costly visas.

Rocking in 2009 - Champagne style

And so it was that Peter and I land in Cairo airport the day before New Years Eve. This was no accident. Megan, an American friend working for SMILE (an international charity) had been invited to party into 2009 at the luxurious apartment of the German Ambassadors home. We had been invited too.

Megan the American charity organiser, Frank the Ambassador

Upon arrival the first thing I notice is the magnificent buffet spread. In the kitchen, a servant, was serving beer and a variety of every alcoholic drink. I helped with the midnight champagne distribution. From the high rise appartment we could see fireworks over the town of Cairo.

At and (this last one) ON the Pyramids

The notion of welcoming in the New Year on a camel, circling the Pyramids, was met, regardless of hangover. Peter rented a horse, me a camel. This way we could swap and have done both. We arrived late, so there was noboby but us around. I had never expected to see a living ancient wonder of the world so bare of tourists. We were even afforded the chance to climb up on them.

Megans friends Amanda and Jennifer; our friends the horse and camel

Later we played trivial pursuit with some of Megans friends: Jennifer and Amanda. So far everything of Egypt had been expat for us. No bother, tomorrow we would visit one of the mightiest rivers in the world: The Nile; then the famous museum housing old king Tut and the Ramsis mummies.

The Egyptian Museum including Tutankahmoun; the mighty Nile

Before heading South to Cape Town, a very necessary detour had to be undertaken. We had to pass underneath the Suez canal, and cross into the Sinai peninsular. What was once occupied by Israel, but now Egyptian once more, it was time to go on a biblical pilgrimage.

Red Sea Dahab ( the moutains back right are Saudi Arabia)

Of the millions of tourist that yearly visit Sinai, the objective is an all too easy, almost boring one. To chillax on the beaches of Sharm El Sheik and snorkel or dive in the Red Sea. We too wanted a piece of the action, but opted for the much more laid back Dahab, where we could snorkel for 5 dollars and stay for even less, just across the bay from Saudi Arabia. To hell with the million dollar resorts of Sharm!

Peter barters with a local

That was until I got a late email from my sister saying that she was going on a holiday to Sharm the very next day. “I don`t know where in Africa you are Jeremiah, but tomorrow I will be in Sharm. If you`re in the area, try and stop by.“

Stanzi and Kieran fly in (note the blue wrist band)

Only 65km away, this meant we could at least SAMPLE luxury. Of course this meant ruining Stanzi and Kierans first few days away. This was a necessary evil, which ultimately benefited them. Okay, I admit, we turned up, crashed their romantic pad, drank all you can drink, not exactly at their expense, but this was conditioned to not being caught.

Totally unprepared, we wisely all invest in a balaklava

Everyone in this resort had a wristband. Simple. Peter and I would roam freely around their resort with long sleeves. This must have been most suspicious when the next morning at the buffet (where of course we went to town!) in its already sweltering heat, everyone was dressed in beach gear. We were in our jumpers. It was time to eat and run. Only we would take the lovers with us.

Quick midnight nap

“You`re leaving the hotel you paid for, where you have three wonderful meals a day, all you can drink at night, and you havent even seen your private beach yet. Instead, you will take two local bus journeys for a few hours with us, pay for a new hotel, only you wont even stay there!
Rather you will have a nap there, but just after midnight, you will both awaken, and without the proper apparel ( after all, they packed for the beach) come on an arduous climb up to the peak of a mountain, where we will wait in the freezing cold for the sun to rise. Only then are you free to go back to your resort“.

Sinai sunrise; brushing up on the TEN COMMANDMENTS

At least that must have been what they heard. In reality I was giving them the chance to do something exciting. This mountain after all was not like any other. It was the self same mountain where Moses himself received the TEN COMMANDMENTS from GOD.

4 heroes; the church atop JABEL MUSA aka Mt Sinai

Shattered and shivering, the two lovers reach the peak, but because we had been so quick at summiting, we had to wait a long time for the sunrise. But it was a clear night and day so all worthwhile. On the way down in the St Katharine Monastery you could find the BURNING BUSH, where God first appeared to Moses. It is still there today some 5000 years later!

Mt Sinai; the burning bush inside St Katherine Monastery

The lovers return to Sharm while Peter and I part hitchhike back to Cairo through the Suez canal. There was one last important thing we had to do in the Egyptian capital before we left. Get our visas for Sudan. Or at least try.

Hitching in arabic?; Shisha with the road workers; Peter explains Darwinism to poor muslim

Often by just looking at the outside of its building, you can usually determine (anywhere around the world) an American or British embassy. They are more like fortresses. An indication of just how many enemies they have.

Hectic downtown Cairo

The Republic of Ireland has never conquered or offended anyone. That is why in a discreet backlane of Cairos Zamalek district, you will find the peaceful, Irish embassy. We even met the Ambassador who said that he will wave the usual 50 dollar fee for preparing a letter needed in Peters visa application for Sudan. He turns to me and says the British embassy will probably do the same for me. They didn`t and I now know why they close themselves in with all that security. Everyone hated them, especially ME.

Hectic Downtown Cairo

A new ridiculously bureucratic system was in place. If something happened to a tourist in Sudan, they didnt want any embassies or governments to come crying to them. And so, everyone must go to their respective embassies (Peter to the Irish, me to the British) to get a letter stating that they are exempt from Sudanese culpability. It`s slightly more complex than that but thats the gist.

Hectic Nightime Cairo

I begged and pleaded. Please!!!! It is a single A4 piece of paper which you print out in 5 seconds then spend another second or so to just stamp it. Please!!! How can you charge me 50usd for that? I left in a rage. I had tried everything in there believe me. I was to meet Peter (who was coming with his free letter of invitation from his embassy) outside the Sudan embassy where we would pay the 100usd and hopefully get our visa that day – INSHALLAH. On the way I stopped to go online and check flights from Cairo to Addis Ababa. I now seriously considered skipping Sudan and going straight to Ethiopia. This had now become a matter of principle.

Some poor brit paid 50usd for this

There was one thing left to do. Beg and plead with the Sudanese Ambassador to give me the visa without this “Letter“. I was allowed to visit the second man in charge. Colonel Wahid, the director of Visas.
His first response was that I shouldnt be travelling if I couldnt afford the 50 dollars. Then he hints that now even IF I did had the “letter“, he wants extra papers from ME. Bank statments and such. I explain that I do have sufficient funds to see me in and out of Sudan, its just the principle of the letter I disagree with. 5 dollars MAYBE? 50 usd was extravagent.

Colonel Wahid

Wahid asks me questions, first about my career, then my opinion on the recent Palestine – Israeli conflict. Then what my impression of Sudan is. He adds that “Darfur is safer than Dover“!
He is then on the phone for 10 minutes or so. When he hangs up he looks casualy my way, almost smirks, then scribbles something on a piece of paper, tells me to go downstairs, pay the 100usd. I would have my visa! Wahid gives me his business card, we take fotos and I profusely thank him.

"City of the Dead" where a million people live in a cemetery

Peter and I will now board the train south, both with our visas in our pockets gleaming with relief as the train criss-crosses the lush greens of the valley carved out by millenia of the flowing waters of the Nile making life possible for millions in this land of what in every other direction lie the harsh terrain and sands of the formidable SAHARA.

Felucca ride across the Nile

We made Aswan our last Egyptian stop. The weekly ferry to Sudan across lake Nasser leaves every Tuesday. We would spend the weekend in Aswan. This way we could take a Felucca ride on the river Nile, and visit some sites, like the Coptic Christian church.

Aswan city gate; Coptic christian church; Aswan Mosque

Apart from the reprise of Stanzi`s “Resort Buffet“ we had afforded ourselves the same meal over and again, morning noon and night: fuul and falafel. Our last night in Egypt, Peter says he cant manage anymore. “One more day Peter. Then we can taste the delights Sudan has to offer“.

Fuul, the foodstuff Peter hates; exotic spices; drinking sheesha with some locals

Before boarding the ferry, we make a dash visit to the famous monstrosity that is the Aswan High Damn. Now we board the ferry and wait to set sail for one of Earth`s most notorious lands: SUDAN

Aswan high Damn; the ferry across lake Nasser to SUDAN

N.B. The desire to climb mount Sinai (Jabel Musa) because its mentioned in the Bible, is just as ridiculous as wanting to go to India to sit under a tree where Buddha was enlightened. They are just romantic notions. Nothing more.


Next up: P n J`s adventures of Sudan